Climbing Question

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Climbing Question

Postby Paul Polo Willgoss » Tue Apr 05, 2011 7:57 pm

I've asked the same on the UK Climbing website - an interesting cross pollination...

I've a sternal entry (right down the middle) and repair, and have adapted my technique to compensate for not have connective tissue across (you can feel the bone if you press down).

Anyway, I've started lead climbing and that requires a bit more hanging around, which traditionally is done on a straight arm and that pulls right across the chest. Not enjoying that I tend to climb on a bent arm, and end up pumped after 1 route.

So any climbers out there who've got around the problem. Part of me thinks its a case of "manning up" and just doing low level repeats but I'm hoping someone has had a whizzo brainwave.

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Postby Macca » Thu May 05, 2011 6:28 pm

Hi Paul

I've just read your post re climbing. I don't have quite the same situation as you, but, do have pains in my chest from climbing and can certainly feel the pressure when 'hanging around' as you put it.

There are several things you can do to help:

Technique - when leading it is common to straight arm on a hold when clipping your runners climbing indoors, and to a degree this is also true when outdoor climbing. I concentrate on sorting out my feet and positioning my body to take the load off the arm/chest, ideally with almost all weight on my feet. This is sometimes more difficult depending on the route. If necessary, use a different hold indoors, some say this is cheating but outdoor climbing (trad or sport) is not colour coded!!

You can try turning side on to the wall with your left or right shoulder against the wall. Not always possible as it depends on the nature of the hold from which you are clipping your runner. If you use the arm closest to the wall to hold and then clip with the other it lessens the direct pull on your chest and also opens up your chest rather then closing it. A good technique if you can master it.

Also, try and look for holds you can use for a 'knee bar'. This is where you place your foot on a hold, then jam your knee 'under' another hold above the one your foot is on creating tension, if done well this can support your entire weight and you can even take both hands off the wall.

If climbing outdoors, finding a spot on the route where you can get a good stance so that you don't need to straight arm is best, especially if placing your own protection.

Finally; training - Two things to do here;

1.bicep curls and tricep extensions with a low weight (2.5kg) and hi reps (10 sets of 10 or 20 with decreasing time between sets is what I do) helps build stamina in the arms and shoulders.

2. Forearm training - buy a powerball -
or wrist ball - ... B002BEX708
If used regularly they build up your forearms like you wouldn't believe, this will help with getting pumped out.

Hope this helps Paul. Happy climbing.


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